Diamonds, Plantations, Bayous and Brews: Gems of the Southeast

As soon as you land at New Orleans’ Louis Armstrong International Airport, you’ll realize that this city is unlike any other in the USA. It’s a kaleidoscope of food, music, architecture and celebrations that honor its distinct mélange of ethnic heritages, from Cajun and African American to Creole, European and Caribbean. Evidence of this melting pot surrounds you as you stroll from street to street and neighborhood to neighborhood: in the Gothic and Victorian-style buildings; in the wedding parties that fill Jackson Square; or in the quirky parades that meander slowly through the French Quarter. It can be tasted in unique dishes like the turtle soup at The Court of Two Sisters, or in the gumbo, beignets and jambalaya served at every corner restaurant. It can be heard in the sounds that spill from a hundred jazz clubs, blues joints and zydeco festivals, and seen on the specialty tours that let you explore topics like voodoo, antiquing and cemeteries. Before you head out of town, immerse yourself in New Orleans nature at spots like the Audubon Nature Institute or on a paddlewheel steamboat tour on the Mississippi River.

Louisiana’s capital city trends Cajun/Creole-cosmopolitan at its center, but is surrounded by sprawling historic plantations that offer a glimpse into the 18th century, and bayous filled with wildlife. Start in downtown Baton Rouge, where you’ll find plenty to keep you occupied, from the Shaw Center for the Arts, to the 400-plus restaurants, food trucks and farmers markets. Of course you should tour both the old and new capitol buildings: the Old Capitol features a museum inside a Gothic stunner overlooking the Mississippi River, while the new Capitol wows with a sky-high view of the city and gorgeous gardens. As you proceed toward Francisville, make a stop at one of the many graceful plantation houses along Route 61, or hit up Teddy’s Juke Joint, a real-deal haunt for alternating DJs and live music.

Architecture enthusiasts and nature lovers can both find something to admire in St. Francisville, home to plantations, a historic district and numerous outdoor pursuits. Start at the West Feliciana Historical Society Museum for an overview of the history of the parish, then try a walking tour of the churches, private homes, Georgian Revival courthouse, restaurants and shops downtown. Note the Gothic stylings of Grace Episcopal Church and the traditional cottage structure of many of the district’s houses. When you’ve had enough of the city, hike or bike the green areas of the parish, or try bird-watching on Cat Island National Wildlife Refuge. It’ll help you burn off some energy before you get back in the car and continue north to the Alexandria and Pineville area.

The two sides of early Louisiana society are evident in Alexandria and Pineville: the splendor of wealthy plantation dwellers, and the Spartan circumstances of poor Creole farmers. Kent House, a beautiful French colonial-style plantation that dates back to 1796, offers a glimpse of the French, Spanish and American cultures that influenced Louisiana. On the other side of town you can visit Epps House, an 1852 Creole cottage that was built in part by Solomon Northup, a kidnapped free man whose story was told in the 2013 film “12 Years a Slave.” On your way out of Alexandria, get an eyeful of Louisiana and Southern art at the Alexandria Museum of Art. Then continue up Interstate 49 to one of the oldest places in Louisiana.

As you enter Natchitoches (pronounced “nack-a-tish”), it might not seem extraordinary, but it is in fact Louisiana’s oldest settlement, dating back to 1714. If you look closely, you can see that it has a distinct European flavor, owing to its founding during the days when Louisiana was still part of France. Tour the extensive National Historic District by horse-drawn carriage, and make stops at the general store and cemetery. Other early sites include plantation houses and Fort St. Jean Baptiste, which tells of Natchitoches’ beginnings. In winter, the Natchitoches Christmas Festival illuminates the city, and in warmer months, watch the sun set over the Red River as you head out of town.